PRODUCTS
• Tri Base Carbon
• Metal Gone
• Moisture Gone
• Chloradsorb
• Instant Ammonia Destroyer
• Right Now! Bacteria
• Hiatt's Super Soap
• Non-Bleach Bleach
• No Streaks!
• pH Rock
• Trace Element Blox
• Aquarium Sparkling Aqua
• Environmental Products

FAQ ...

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Frequently Asked Questions
We will be posting answers to questions we receive as they are submitted. Check back here periodically to find the latest responses from our Technical Wizards.

Q:I would like to know if it would be possible to combine Right Now with Live Rock as a way to speed up the cicling period. My tank is on day 28 of the cycling period with live rock, skimmer, sand and Magnum 380. Ammonia has been "zero" since day 18, but Nitrite is still incredibly high.
- Sergio Bracho (May 14, 2001)

Dear Sergio,
Thank you for your interest in our products. Here are your answers to your questions regarding live rock.
1. Yes, the Right Now Bacteria will reduce your Ammonia and Nitrites without the Tri Base Carbon.
2. It will depend upon how much mg/L of Nitrites are in your tank for it to drop that compound.
3. You can use (and many people do use the Right Now) for this purpose. The Tri Base Pelletized Carbon will rapidly assist the cycle and also not only the nitrates but the phosphates as well. The carbon does not take out the N and P but allows a HUGE platform of 1150 msq/g surface area, AND one of the carbons in the pellet elevates the TOC that is needed for this reduction.
4. You will HAVE to allow the water when it returns from the canister to splash ABOVE the water from one end of the tank to the other. This bacterial compound NEEDS great amounts of O2 to digest these compounds.
5. You can maintain a long time colony of RN but we also suggest adding a LITTLE about every 6 months. Why? Because some of the organisms will have comsumed the bad stuff and run out of food and died. So Giving this a boost will help a lot.
6. You must turn off your protein skimmer and UV for 48 hours so the bacteria will become established.

Majesticreefs. Majesticreefs offers all HDL Products for your Aquarium Upkeep and Pleasure. Majesticreefs a proud retailer of all Haitt line of products, we are specialized in salt water aquarium by using Haitt's patented 24 Hour TOTALLY AEROBIC Nitrification Cycle. They carry full line Haitt's aquarium products, plus full system design, setup and maintenance. Our holding system using Haitt's patented 24 Hour TOTALLY AEROBIC Nitrification Cycle bring the most healthy marine fish and coral to hobbyist worldwide. Majesticreefs also recently added a fine decorate gift section to enhance your home and aquarium.


Respectfully submitted,
- WO

***********RELATED:
Yes, you can use the Right Now alone. But it will not cycle in 24 hours with the carbon if you just had fish.

If your tank has ONLY Live Rock, then you will be ok. Why? The Right Now! Will accelarate the cycle. Instead of waiting for the peak (NH3 and NH4OH to reach it's peak in a few weeks, it will take about 24 hours. (I am assuming you have Uncured live rock. Please inform me if that is not the case)

The reason why, the Right Now! starts to rapidly break down the dead tissue in the live rock that is hidden from your eyes. As the tissue is broken down, it turns into nitrogen waste. This is the reason for the spike. The ammonia will go up, and then it will remain there until ALL the mass is comsumed and converted. Then one day, it will suddenly DROP like a rock. That means nothing is remaining in the rock and it is "cured".

A very important thing is, you MUST give the Right Now! LOTS of air (oxygen) If you have a return tube that is underwater, you must have it above the water's surface, shooting accross the surface relieves the CO2 debt and increases the O2 in the water.

Also if you have any fish, shrimp, etc, the sudden rise in Ammonia will kill them. So that is why I said, Only Live Rock.

***********RELATED:
With live rock, the problem is you do not know how long it was out of water. We have seen some horror stories of it "dry" for 48 to 72 hours. that leaves a LOT of death to clean up.

If you use our products on live rock that is not cured, then the following WILL happen. Instead of the ammonia slowly climbing to a peak in two or 4 weeks, with Right Now, the Ammonia will climb to the highest point in 24 hours.

Now when you use the Tri Base Pelletized Carbon, this will give massive surface area for the bacteria to reside. STILL if the rock has lots of death in it, the bacteria must eat until it is all gone. What happens in this case, the Ammonia will shoot up to the top of the scale in 24 hours and remain there. (just think of dropping a pound of hamburger in the aquarium and waiting for the bacteria to consume it.) It will remain there for 4-10 (or more) days, and then suddenly drop like a rock over night.

When this happens, it is ok to introduce fish and inverts in the tank without any harm.

If you were to start a tank with fish and / or corals, it will cycle your tank in 24 hours as long as you follow our protocol. But in the case of Live rock instead of 8-10 weeks, the time is much shorter. If the rock is in good shape when you get it, then 24 to 48 hours is the norm.

***********************
Q: I want to know which method is economical to seperate hydrogen from cyclohexanol, phenol, methane, water?
I am doing the project work on cyclohexanol.
- Er.k.s.raj mphan (Feb/02/2001)

A: Dear Sir, one method is heat and our Ecosorb. This must be in a pressure environment. The mixture's temp would be elevated. Hydrogen would boil off and as it did, the gas would be filtered through a bed of Ecosorb. At his point, the H2 would be captured. The other compounds would be bypassed by Ecosorb, as long as there were enough H2. IF not, then Methane would be adsorb. The process would then be repeated using the exhaust bed, and the H2 would relieve itself from the bed, before the CH4. The H2 would be captured by another bed of Ecosorb. Then the H2 can be evacuated by using either heat or a vacum.

You MUST have a water capturing unit between the solution and the Ecosorb. Otherwise, the water will displace the H2 and CH4.

My suggestion would be is to try a bench model first. Then when you see the results, we can supply you with different units tailor-made for your large project.

Respectfully submitted,
- WO
Q: I like to use Tri Base Carbon and RightNow product to lower nitrate, but my setup is the following: 55 Gallon saltwater fish only established tank with high nitrates. Filters are Aquaclear 500, Rainbow Lifeguard Fluidized bed filter and RedSea Prizm protein filter. Sugar-size sand. I don't want to purchase canister filter to setup carbon chamber, can I still use your products?
- Steve (Feb/01/2001)

A: Thank you for your inquiry. I will answer your question in a way you will not expect. One way to lower your Nitrates is to lower you BCOD. This is by far one of the most important things in the hobby that people overlook. The BCOD are the compounds that are stored in your sand, under your rocks, dirt in your filter and pores in your rock

The first thing I would suggest is:
1. Do a water change of up to 50 percent. When you are doing the water change, BE SURE to vacunm your Gravel, UNDER your rocks and clean your filter. (Do NOT destroy your biological bed in your filter by cleaning it TOO clean.)

2. When you do your water change and clean your gravel, NEVER use the water in your tank to recirculate. This will raise your BCOD in the water, which you do not want.

3. Dump the water into the toliet by using a garden hose. You can buy a hose attachment from Home Depot to fit on the end of your hose. Then simply start your water flow and you will not have to carry any heavy buckets. This alone will drop your Nitrates in 1/2 over night. You should do a water change between 25 to 50% every other week. This sounds like a lot, but you will notice your fish will be doing much better than they are now.

Now in regards to your system. The Aqua Clear is the only place where you can put the Tri Base Carbon. Since you do not want to use a canister filter, then you have to go with what you have.

After cleaning the tank (water change) you can then put in the Right Now and the TBPC. This amount (what you can stuff in the filter) will HELP, and along with your tank maintenance, you will soon have a happy tank.

Just a note: We will be soon have articles posted every month on different aspects of water chem. The first article will appear later this month, and you can write in your comments regarding the article. You may wish to inform your friends of this fact. Also, if you are a writer who has a solid foot hold in science you may also submit articles. The articles will be first reviewed, and then edited for correct science.

Respectfully submitted,
- WO

The following explains the proper procedures for setting up your tanks. Read carefully and contact us if you still need assistance.

SETTING UP HDL'S TRULY BULLET-PROOF 24 HOUR CYCLE SYSTEM

ALL TANKS
If you follow these simple instructions, you will have success EVERY TIME!
1. Calculate the TOTAL AMOUNT of gallons your new tank can hold without anything in it. Use this formula – multiply dimensions (inches) L x W x H, then divide by 231 = Gallons.

2. Using this formula, multiply tank gallons X .1667 = the amount of TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON needed as a Bio Bed.

3. Using this formula, multiply tank gallons X .7 = the amount of pH rock needed for your system for a pH of 8.4. The pH rock will ALSO elevate your CALCIUM LEVELS to 400+ depending the amount used. The pH rock will ALSO elevate your ALKALINITY depending upon the amount used.

4. Your ACTUAL FLOW (which is the water returning to your tank after it has passed through your filters) must be TEN (10) Times an hour. Your flow can be measured by holding a bucket at the point of discharge at the top of the tank. Measure how long it will take a 5 gallon bucket to fill. As an example 5 gallons fills in 10 seconds. That means your flow rate is 30 gallons per minute. Then multiply 30 X 60 (minutes in an hour) and it will equal 1800 gallons per hour. You can buy a pump that would give you about 1900 gallons per hour and with the restrictions, you will be slightly under 1800 gallons an hour.

5. The only canisters we found to carry this amount of carbon is the RED TORPEDO. Ask your dealer for this product, Model 1 to 6.

6. The return pipe (this is very important) must be ABOVE the surface of the water in the tank. It must shoot from the rear to the front, and be cross corner. If you DON'T do this, you will have a very hard time with your pH and the Dissolved Oxygen levels in your tank. Water should be taken from the bottom of the tank.

7. Use a smaller quantity of the SEA LAB BLOC # 28 as your trace element. Bury the nugget or bloc under the sand next to the glass so you can see when it dissolves. Less hassle and waste.

8. Do partial water changes every other week (10-25%). This will make your system hum.

9. Water temp should be around 78 - 80O F. In the tropics the water temp is usually between 84 to 90 0 F in many places. This I know from diving. Density (no, it is not really called salinity) should be between 1.020 to 1.025. At the lower density there is less disease and the water can carry more Oxygen.

10. Every month, rinse the Tri Base Pelletized Carbon in clean cool water. If you have the Tri Base Pelletized Carbon in bags (which you should) ALWAYS REVERSE THE LOWER BAG WITH THE CLEANED BAG. This will prolong the life of the TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON as a Bio Media. If you have the ability to back flush, back flush ONLY for 10 to 15 seconds. Otherwise your bacteria bed will be carried away in the waste water. Back Flushing means to change the direction of the water flow and capture that water in a bucket or expunge it down a toilet. Back flushing does not mean to back flush water back into the tank.

11. Our system will also work in your present Wet/Dry filter. Simply remove the Bio Balls, and divide the TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON into bags that will contain 3 to 9 pounds each for easy handling.

NEW TANKS
1. Set up the tank as listed above. (SEE: ALL TANKS)

2. Acclimatise your fish by using an air line with a plastic valve. Drip water from the air line into a small plastic bucket. Start slow at first, and after an hour and a half, increase the flow. Keep putting the water into the tank as the bucket fills up.

3. FIVE MINUTES BEFORE YOU PUT THE FISH IN THE TANK, add the Right Now Bacteria in the tank. DO NOT ADD THE BACTERIA BEFORE THAT! Then add the fish.

4. The first 24 hours the tank will cloud up. By the next day you will have the entire TOTALLY AEROBIC NITROGEN and PHOSPHORUS CYCLE!

5. If you have only live rock, you can simply add the RIGHT NOW! Bacteria when you put in the live rock. You do not need the TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON. Even if you do not use the TRI BASE PELLETIZE CARBON, RIGHT NOW! Bacteria will protect your fish from the deadly ammonium and Nitrite Spike. Without the TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON you will NOT have continual Aerobic Nitrate or Phosphate reduction or will have it to a lesser degree.

OLD TANKS
1. Follow the procedure outlined in ALL TANKS, BUT there are modifications.

2. Do NOT PUT ALL THE TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON in at once. IF YOU DO, IT WILL KILL YOUR FISH, as the Oxygen will be adsorbed by this Highly Activated TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON.

3. Put in a quarter pound (1 cup) of TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON to start. Allow the system to run three or four days. Then add one half pound per every other day until you have attained the required amount of TRI BASE PELLETIZED CARBON you need.

YOU DO NOT HAVE TO USE ANY DI OR RO WATER WITH THIS SYSTEM!